| Cufflinks |
Ornamental accessory device of two parts joined by a shank, bar or chain for passing through buttonholes to fasten shirt cuffs. Usually made in gold, silver or platinum they can be decorated with hand engraving or embellished with diamonds or other precious and semi precious gemstones |
| Cut-away Collar |
Style of shirt collar that is more cut away towards the shoulder- the degree varies. Also referred to as Windsor collar |
| Cutter |
Person who measures and fits the customer and then makes a pattern from the measurements and observations of the customer’s figure and posture |
| Double Cuff |
See French cuff |
| Drape |
The way a fabric hangs in folds |
| Dye |
The use of a substance to add colour to fabrics or fibres |
| Dyeing |
The process of applying colour to a textile product by soaking it in a coloured solution |
| Egyptian Cotton |
A long-staple fine cotton grown chiefly in North Africa |
| Fabric |
Yarns or fibres coming together in long lengths |
| Fabric Count |
The number of threads per square inch. The higher the thread count the finer the cotton will be. The numbers range from 80s to 200s count |
| Fibres |
Fine hair like structures, which can be natural or synthetic or regenerated, long (filament) or short (staple) |
| Flannel |
Derived from the Welsh name for wool, flannel is made from woollen yarn that is slightly twisted in the spinning and of open texture |
| Fly Front |
Shirt style where the buttons on the front of the shirt are hidden beneath a neat cover made from the shirting material |
| Fusing |
Use of chemicals and heat to weld the interlinings to the outer fabric of a garment, as distinct from the superior methodology of stitching used by bespoke shirt makers such as J. H. Cutler |
| French Cuff |
Style of cuff on a dress or formal shirt, which is folded back and then closed with cufflinks rather than buttons. Also known as double cuff |
| Gingham |
A cotton fabric with a chequered pattern, typically white and one other colour |
| Herringbone |
Fabric style characterised by a balanced zigzag effect. It was named after the skeleton of the herring, as this is what the fibre pattern resembles |
| Jacquard |
A fabric with an intricate design incorporated in the weave |
| Linen |
Natural vegetable-based fibre |
| Loom |
Machine used to produce cloth by weaving |
| Lustre |
Term used to describe the intensity with which light shines on a piece of fibre |
| Made to Measure |
Garment made from a pre-existing stock pattern that is merely altered to fit the customer's measurements |
| Mandarin Collar |
Also known as a band collar, the shirt collar stands up against the neck and is usually worn with a formal jacket |
| Madras Fabric |
A lightweight cotton fabric, sometimes used for making shirts, that is typically associated with summer clothing |
| Mother of Pearl |
Made from natural pearl, we use only mother of pearl buttons on all our bespoke shirts. In comparison plastic buttons look dull and yellowy |
| Nylon |
Synthetic fibre also known as polyamide |
| Off the Rack (Peg) |
Finished clothing item sold in standard sizes |
| Oxford |
A shirting fabric made of soft-combed cotton yarns in a modified plain or basket weave |
| Pinpoint Oxford |
This fabric combines the weaving techniques of poplin and oxford. The result is a fine, yet durable fabric that is perfect for dress shirts |
| Placket |
The strengthening strip of cloth running from the collar to the hem of the shirt that includes the buttonholes |
| Pleat |
Fold of fabric generally pressed flat to allow extra room in garment |
| Poplin |
A soft fabric with a fine rib effect on the surface due to a finer warp yarn |
| Rayon |
Textile fibre or fabric made from regenerated cellulose (viscose) |
| Royal Oxford |
Shirting fabric, which originated in the UK in the late 19 th century. Known for its exceptional texture, softness and lustre |
| Sea Island Cotton |
A cotton with unusually long silky fibres grown in the Caribbean |
| Satin |
Silk fabric with glossy surface on one side |
| Savile Row |
Street in the West End of London that is the original home of bespoke tailoring and shirt making. |
| Shirting |
Fabric from which shirts are made. Can include cotton, twill, flannel, voile, silk, chambray and linen amongst others |
| Silk |
Fabric spun from silk thread, which in turn is sourced from silk worms |
| Single Cuff |
Cuff normally found on business and long sleeve casual shirts |
| South Sea Cotton |
Exceptionally fine long staple type of cotton grown in the West Indies |
| Spinning |
Process of making fibres into yarns |
| Spread Collar |
Similar to a standard shirt collar but the points in front are wider apart |
| Stretch |
The extendibility of a fibre, yarn or fabric |
| Tactile Property |
How a garment fits |
| Tint |
Light wash of colour, usually pale or delicate |
| Twill |
A popular weave pattern identified by diagonal lines on the face of the fabric |
| Two-Fold |
Two cotton threads twisted together into a yarn to make a dense, luxurious shirting |
| Voile |
Thin semi transparent cotton, woollen or silken material used in the making of shirts |
| Viyella |
A soft fabric made from a blend of wool and cotton woven in a twill weave. It was first developed in England in the late 1800s and is recognised as being the first branded fabric in the world |
| Warp |
Vertical threads of a woven fabric |
| Weft |
Horizontal threads of a woven fabric |
| Windsor Collar |
Very cut away style of shirt collar, which is also known as a cut-away collar |
| Wing Collar |
A stand up shirt collar with downward pointing edges. The most formal choice of collar style to wear with a formal jacket |
| Wool |
Natural fibre coming from sheep, goats, alpacas, vicuna etc |
| Woollen |
Cloth woven from both long and short-stapled fibres. Often seen in a flannel cloth |
| Yarn Count |
Term used to denote the size/weight of yarn. Yarn is measured in terms of denier or tex |
| Yarns |
Length of fibres and/or filaments with or without twist |
| Yoke |
A section of fabric in a shirt that enhances the fit. The yoke is usually on the back across the top shoulder area, but can also be on the front shoulder to chest area |
